A torpedo sinker is similar to a bomb or casting sinker but it has a small wire loop at either end and a slimmer, longer shape. This is useful for dropping baits in deep water in the ocean, for example, when you want a hydrodynamic sinker that sinks quickly and offers little resistance when retrieving up through the water. Common applications include fishing live and cut baits for tuna, rockfish, grouper and snapper at a certain depth when you don't need to hold bottom. A typical example might be when you're fishing from a boat and see fish showing a half–depth on a fish finder. A torpedo sinker sinks fast to the desired depth and will hold there better than other less hydrodynamic designs that tend to rise in the water easily, making this style the best choice of weight for the job. A torpedo-style sinker is also used when trolling, which involves towing a lure or bait behind a moving boat to attract predatory species such as muskie, large trout, salmon, lake trout, tuna, sailfish, wahoo, mahi mahi and marlin. The main line can be attached to one loop, the leader to the other loop, and it helps the lure or bait run deeper in the water column, away from the surface and in the strike zone.

How to choose fishing bait is a common question from novice anglers. When learning to fish, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by all the bait options available. There are scores of enticements from which to choose, but you need to narrow the selection to just a few for each fishing trip. No bait works every time, but the more you learn about using each one, the more fish you’ll catch. Let’s start you on the road to success by discussing some pointers for popular choices for fishing bait that works. Live baits Live baits include many forage animals that comprise the natural diets of our sportfish. Some like worms, minnows and crickets can be purchased in bait shops. Others like shad (small bait fish) or frogs aren’t often sold but can be collected outdoors if you have the proper gear and adequate time. Sponsored Links Getting A Fully Funded Degree From The USA May Be Easier Than You Think Scholarship In USA | Search Ads A decision on which to use often comes down to availability. Can I purchase this bait from my local bait dealer, or will I need to spend valuable time catching the bait before I start fishing? The answer may determine what works best for you. Unless you fish with the bait right away, you’ll also need to utilize various methods for keeping it alive. Dead, stiff or glassy-eyed fish baits seldom are as enticing as those that swim, hop and wiggle. Some baits like nightcrawlers (big earthworms) and insect nymphs are easily kept in your refrigerator or a cooler until you go fishing. But others such as minnows and shad may require specialized items like aerators to oxygenate the water or bait tanks for proper care. Use only those baits you know you can keep healthy until you reach your fishing hole. You’ll also want to be sure you know all regulations governing the collection and use of live baits where you’ll be fishing. These often are extensive, and you’ll want to make bait selections based on what the law allows. For example, some states limit the use of baitfish to certain “Green List” species to help prevent the accidental introduction of unwanted types. Stick with legal varieties so you aren’t part of the problem. Finally, you’ll want to match the bait you’ll use to the type of fish you’re hoping to catch. For example, you wouldn’t want to bait your hook with a frog if you’re hoping to catch bluegills because bluegills seldom eat frogs. In this case, crickets, a bluegill favorite, will work better. Those same crickets won’t work well for coaxing walleyes, but a fat night crawler or leech will prove irresistible every time. Good live baits and fish they catch include: Worms: bluegills and other sunfish, trout, black bass (largemouth, smallmouth, spotted), catfish, walleyes, carp Minnows: crappie, black bass, catfish, walleye, trout, saugers, pickerel, white bass, salmon Crayfish: black bass, catfish, trout, rock bass Crickets/grasshoppers: bluegills/sunfish, crappie, trout Shad/herring: catfish, stripers, hybrid stripers, largemouth bass Frogs: black bass, catfish, pickerel, walleyes Leeches: walleyes, black bass, sunfish, catfish, trout Insect larvae (hellgrammites, mealworms, waxworms, dragonfly nymphs, catalpa worms and more): trout, sunfish, rock bass, black bass, walleyes, catfish, crappie Crabs/shrimp: saltwater sportfish such as redfish, black drum, tarpon, sheepshead, permit, jack crevalle, bonefish, cobia, pompano Bloodworms: bluefish, seatrout, striped bass, whiting, flounder, porgy, croaker, perch Sand fleas: pompano, whiting, blackfish, redfish, striped bass, black drum, croakers Eels: striped bass, tuna fish and frog Many bait can be purchased from sporting goods dealers or bait shops, but some, like frogs, must be caught by the angler (Image credit: K Sutton) How to plan a fishing trip: all you need to know before you go How to go night fishing: all you need for a successful catch under the stars 10 of the best baits for winter fishing so you catch more when it's cold Grocery baits If you enjoy fishing for catfish and fresh live baits aren’t available, a trip to the supermarket could turn up some good enticements. We call these grocery baits. Good ones to try include: Hot dogs: especially cheap brands. Chicken liver: Fresh works better than frozen, the bloodier the better. Cheese: especially smelly varieties like Limburger. Hormel Spam: Trophy catfish relish this canned meat. Canned sweetcorn: lots of fish love this bright and easy-to-use bait. Shrimp/squid: Fresh and frozen both work great. grocery fishing bait Many useful baits, especially those used for catfishing, can be purchased simply by visiting the local grocery store. (Image credit: K Sutton) Commercial baits For several decades now, manufacturers have been experimenting with secret mixtures of special ingredients that fish will eat as readily as natural baits. The result is a unique class of manmade enticements you can purchase online or at bait shops and discount stores. Most contain scents or other additives formulated to stimulate a fish’s senses of taste or smell. They usually store well at moderate temperatures and can be kept in a tackle box for ready use at any time. Many of these baits are made especially for anglers targeting catfish. These include dip baits, dough baits, chunk baits, punch baits and tube baits in dozens of flavors and scents. Other commercial baits rely on special ingredients to attract panfish, trout, bass and other fish. These often are molded to resemble worms, baitfish or other natural baits, and while they don’t often work as well as their natural counterparts, they will catch fish in many situations and are especially useful in combination with lures and live baits. Those in Berkley’s Gulp! and PowerBait lines are especially popular and well known. Summary The main lesson is to work out what bait is best suited to the fish you’re trying to catch – as the old adage goes: "match the hatch". Once you’ve worked out this element of learning how to fish, your catches will undoubtedly increase dramatically.

Lake fishing floats differ from river patterns in that most of them are attached bottom end only. Two thirds of the shotting capacity is often used to lock the float on the line, leaving a slight gap so it folds neatly on the strike. Straight wagglers made from ultra buoyant materials are perhaps the most versatile of lake float patterns. These are really good for both fishing at distance and flicking out to fish holding features. A decent-sized straight waggler should hold its position over a baited area in wind, surface drift and undertow, provided you sink the line. Wagglers with slender insert tips are better in calmer conditions as they register even the most subtle of bites and are a good choice in the winter months for shy-biters. Bigger floats for bigger jobs For float fishing at distance or in very deep water, a large bodied waggler is the better option. Bodied wagglers tend to be larger than other patterns, requiring plenty of shot, so they cast surprisingly long distances and offer a stable presentation. Lock them at the correct depth, as with standard wagglers. Or use a sliding stop knot if the swim you intend to fish in has depths which exceed the length of your rod. Large floats requiring plenty of split shot aren’t always necessary for close in work or lowering baits along margin hotspots. Lake fishing floats for more finesse For rigs that don’t require much in the way of casting, opt for a pole float. They are great for stalking and offer superior bite indication. Slender, delicate insert wagglers do the same job too and are well worth using for those shy biters. It’s great that traditional stillwater float fishing for species other than carp is making a well deserved comeback. You’ll need a variety of stillwater patterns to deal with all situations, be it weather conditions, depth or reaching distant catching zones. These straight wagglers are the most versatile stillwater pattern. They are usually made from peacock quill, reed and hollow plastic with crystal varieties being the most discreet for clear water conditions. Attached bottom end only, they offer far greater stability than top and bottom floats – and cast better too. Bodied wagglers require plenty of weight to cock them and are the preferred choice for thumping out baits at distance. They’re also suited for fishing at depth and offer enhanced stability, especially when wind, surface and undertow are a problem. Use an insert waggler on calm days. They are more sensitive than straight patterns and indicate the really shy bites. They can be shotted down to a mere pimple on the surface for those ultra shy feeders, such as large roach and canny perch. Little darts and canal insert wagglers are tops for close-in work, using ultra fine gear and small baits. These delicate stillwater floats are only suitable for calm conditions as any surface chop is enough to drag the float under. Pole floats don’t have to be used exclusively with poles – they work very well on a running line too. Attached top and bottom, these floats are excellent for gently lowering rigs in the margins to intercept kerb crawling carp and tench. Some insert wagglers are provided with interchangeable tips for differing light levels, but carrying a pot of correction fluid and a black permanent pen allows you to quickly change the colour as soon as the conditions change.

Before we get onto how to choose groundbait, let's start with what you'll need... In order to prepare groundbait correctly the first thing you need is a decent mixing bowl. In fact, if you want to take groundbaiting seriously it’s a good idea to invest in a set of two or three bowls, so you can experiment with different mixes. An atomiser spray is very useful for fine tuning mixes, along with a container of water (lake or river rather than a tap) so you can mix moisture in more precisely. Having a selection of liquid flavourings on hand is a good idea too, so that bland mixes can quickly be revitalised.

Rather than knocking up groundbait without any thought, it’s a good idea to get in the habit of timing your mixes. This way you can recreate a particularly good groundbait mix time and time again. After initial mixing with water, allow a short standing period to let the moisture fully absorb. Normally a second application of moisture will be required to plump the feed up even more.

When it comes to learning how to choose groundbait, black and dark groundbaits work well in clear water. They don’t stand out on the bottom, which prevents attracting unwanted attention from diving birds. Also, potential prey fish don’t like hovering over light groundbait patches on the bottom in clear water, because this makes them stand out to predators. You can buy special groundbait dyes if you need to tone down a favourite light coloured mix.

Red groundbait is very popular too, being a big favourite for carp, bream and tench. Red groundbait tends to works well in the summer months in heavily coloured lakes, tying in well with red maggots, worms and red sweetcorn. Red feed is also worth considering in clear, cold water because in similar fashion to black groundbaits it doesn’t produce a light backdrop that makes prey fish stand out to predators.

Mixed groundbait might feel and look okay but it will perform even better if you riddle it. Apart from removing any lumps and large particles, this process also aerates the feed into a nice fluffy texture. This helps it to bind better so it won’t break up in flight, but doesn’t make the groundbait so hard it won’t break down in water. Riddled groundbait also tends to be more active.

Crushed hemp seed is a top ingredient for making groundbaits more active. This additive sends off an attractive oily slick, helping to burst groundbait out of open-end feeders in an enticing cloud of particles. Tinned hemp is another great fish attractor when mixed with groundbait. This gear is pressure cooked, so it holds in all its flavour and oils, which helps to turn groundbait extremely active, sending an impressive fizz of bubbles to the surface.

Method mix groundbaits are deliberately binding in nature so that fish have to attack them hard to get at the bait, and to prevent them from breaking away from method feeders too quickly. You need to mix this type of groundbait very carefully, otherwise you will end up with a gooey mess! Add water in very small amounts and stir the groundbait vigorously. These binding mixes compress better when mixed slightly on the dry side.

Molasses is a great groundbait ingredient for sweet-toothed bream. It ties in particularly well with baits like sweetcorn and fruit flavoured pellets or boilies. Some groundbait mixes contain molasses in dry form, while it’s also available as a thick treacly liquid additive. In the latter form, be careful to add the molasses to water as you mix the groundbait, because pouring it on neat makes for a very sticky concoction!

Brown breadcrumb is a superb and relatively cheap bulking agent for most types of groundbait. It doesn’t detract from the flavour and also makes the groundbait into a better consistency to work with. White breadcrumb tends to be more binding in nature, normally being used on its own when fishing with various types of bread hook baits. White crumb breaks down quicker if you mix it on the dry side, or dilute it with some brown crumb.

Punch crumb is a coarser white breadcrumb that has been freeze dried. This process stops the white crumb from being too sticky, but even then careful mixing is required to prevent stodgy mixes. A good trick is to mix prepared punch crumb with liquidised bread. This creates a fluffy textured, soft groundbait, also adding a bit of weight to the liquidised bread so it sinks better.

Crushed sweetcorn powder is a relatively new groundbait ingredient. Sweetcorn in its natural and dyed state is very popular bait, so it makes sense to utilise this fish attractor in groundbait too. Sweetcorn based groundbaits work well for carp, bream, barbel, chub, big roach and tench. Some anglers even liquidise sweetcorn and then add it to groundbait, but this needs to be done in moderation, otherwise the feed turns very mushy.

There are many different types of jigs in hundreds of colors and shapes so it can be confusing to pick the best one for the job, but let’s narrow it down to two types to carry in your tackle box: a jig you can drag on the bottom, and a jig you can flip into structure. The dragging jig is often called a football jig due to the football-shaped head. This shape of jig will help the bait navigate through rock and cover and not get hung up due to its streamline shape. A favorite jig in this style is the Molix MF Football Jig - this is the bait Carl used to win the Elite Series event at Lake Tenkiler in 2019. The unique head shape glides through structure easily and the hand tied skirt will get you the bites. Try a 3/4oz for your deep water bass fishing and 1/2oz for everything else. A good choice for a flipping jig – one used for targeting heavy structure – is going to have a few slightly different attributes and the Molix Kento Jig is a great choice because it has a smaller profile and different head shape. This is great for targeting bass wherever you can think of; docks, laydowns, stumps and rocks, it will do the job. The main size is 1/2oz for this application but you can drop down to 3/8oz for super shallow water fishing. Both types of jigs are weedless, which means they have a small bunch of soft plastic bristles guarding the hook point. They’re positioned in such a way that the jig won’t get hooked onto structure or weeds when retrieving, but fold under pressure from the bass biting the lure, thus hooking the fish. Using a weedless-style bass lure allows you to fish into dense cover and structure, where big bass love spending time, without getting snagged or hung up.

By far our favorite way to catch a bass is casting over heavy cover and watching a giant largemouth blow through a thick mat of grass to eat a frog imitation lure – this is as good as it gets! Obviously, to do this you’ll need a good frog lure to replicate the amphibians bass like to eat in your area, so here are two main baits that seem to work all over the country. If they are on frogs, they will eat these. One of the most successful designs is the Molix Super Nato Frog, a versatile hybrid style of bait. It has toad-style back legs with lots of movement so you can simply wind it back and get bites. But our favorite way to fish this frog is to skip it under docks and overhanging trees, and give it short sharp twitches. The bass will eat it on the pause most times, when it gets out of the strike zone simply wind it back and you may get a bite on the way back to the boat. There are many different colors and they all work great depending on your local conditions and frog colorations. The other is a walk bait or popping frog, which is a combination of the topwater baits we talked about first of all in this article and the more traditional frog baits. These are the most popular amongst frog anglers and work great with their concave nose creating a ton of bass-attracting disturbance. Again, we like the Molix range as they have a Sneaky Frog and a Pop Frog – both are proven bass-catching baits.

A casting or bomb sinker has a pear or torpedo-shaped body with a wire loop or swivel protruding from the top. The aerodynamic shape of the casting sinker and versatility of the rounder bomb-style weight make them two great all-round options for a variety of rigs. The shape makes them ideal for casting a good distance but they’re not great at holding a bait in place in any sort of current, unlike the pyramid or Sputnik sinker. Keep this in mind when you're choosing the best sinker for the job. But, this style of sinker is popular for a lot of freshwater fishing and is commonly used when targeting species like carp, catfish, trout and bass, often with a more static bait-based approach when casting distance is the most important factor. The rounder bomb-style of sinker is also useful when bouncing baits down the current; when you need a certain amount of weight to cast and hold the bait down, but you want it to be moving naturally down with the current. The rounded shape doesn’t dig into the bottom like a pyramid sinker might. This is ideal for some salmon and trout fishing techniques – “flossing” for steelhead in the North West, for example. This style of sinker is also called a bank sinker but it’s best to buy the slightly more expensive type with a metal loop or swivel on the top. Lots of retailers sell variety packs of casting sinkers and a small range covering 0.5–2oz / 14–57g will serve any angler well for most of their fishing.

With loads of helpful navigation and route finding apps such as Komoot out there, it’s becoming increasingly easy to find new hiking trails online, but beyond a red squiggly line, someone’s iPhone photos from four years ago and a few starred reviews, how do you really know what you’re getting yourself into? I’ve certainly hiked on trails that other users reported were stunning only to find them a little ho-hum, and I’ve laughed out loud at people’s scathing reviews of some of the most beautiful spots on the planet (like the hiker who found Arches National Park underwhelming!). But hey, we’re all different, right? So what makes a good hiking trail? In truth, this is a very subjective topic, but as an avid hiker I think there are some objective characteristics that can make the difference between a so-so trail and a great one. Read on for 11 traits of a good hiking trail so you can lace your hiking boots up with confidence and excitement. 1. Views Let’s start with the obvious one – a great hiking trail delivers great scenery, and ideally not just at the top but all the way along. There’s nothing better than a trail that offers periodic outlooks and vistas of the surrounding mountains or glimpses of the ocean before arriving at a breathtaking 360 degree view. 2. Beauty spots It sounds obvious that a hiking trail must deliver some natural features, but you get woodland walks where mostly what you see is trees. Trees can be lovely, but then you get hiking trails that deliver cascading waterfalls, babbling brooks, rugged rock formations, jagged coastline or secluded beaches, and the more of those a trail provides, the better it is. 3. Peace and quiet One problem with really gorgeous trails, like The Mist Trail in Yosemite National Park, is that everyone wants to see them, so your experience might be slightly colored by stopping every ten seconds to let another hiker pass or standing in a slow-moving queue at the narrow sections. A beautiful trail that’s not popular, either because no one knows about it or it’s too out of the way, delivers a truly memorable experience. Watch out for trails that are really accessible and have loads of parking, as they’re likely to be jammed on the weekends. 4. Water We’re not just talking about the calming sounds of a rushing river or an idyllic wild swimming spot, although those things are terrific. We mean actual water that you can drink. If you’re setting off on a long hike, it’s always helpful to know that you’ll be able to fill your water bottle along the way. Check a topographical map of the area to ensure there’s a spring, river or lake before you set off. Oh and bring a means to purify water in the wild, too. 5. Switchbacks hey might add distance to your hike, but switchbacks make steep climbs easier, so when you’re examining your route and you see lots of zig zags, be thankful. Straight lining right up a steep stretch can be unnecessarily tiring and not very fun. 6. A little challenge What makes for a challenging hike and how much challenge is ideal really varies from person to person, but here at Advnture we’re all in agreement that we like to put in a little bit of effort on a hike, whether that means some fun scrambling, a steep stretch to the summit or a longer distance. 7. Varied difficulty In addition to those steep sections, a great hiking trail also has flat sections and descents where you can put the trekking poles away, catch your breath and stride out at a good pace while you just enjoy the views. 8. Maintenance On a practical note, there’s a lot to be said for a well-maintained trail that isn’t overgrown, blocked by fallen trees or difficult to navigate, and that’s one reason why we love hiking in US National Parks so much. Though you should always bring a map and compass when you’re heading into the backcountry, and a little navigation can be fun, it’s also great to relax a little and just enjoy the walk. 9. Options Some trails are a straightforward saunter to a viewpoint or beauty spot, while others have options. One trail might hook up with another or give you the option of an out-and-back hike as well as a longer loop, for example. This can mean you can hike the same trail multiple times and never get bored or tailor your hike to suit how much time you have and how you’re feeling. It also means if you’re hiking with a buddy, you can compromise and find a good option that meets both your abilities. 10. Wildlife Wildlife viewing can be one of the most exciting parts of hiking, whether that means enjoying the birds through your binoculars or looking out for bighorn sheep, mountain goats or even bears (from a safe distance). Make sure you read up on wildlife safety before heading into areas where you might encounter such animals. 11. Camping opportunities Though this isn’t required for a great hiking trail, it’s definitely nice if camping is allowed and there are relatively flat clearings where you can pitch a tent if you want to go backpacking and spend the night on your favorite trail.

The two big factors to consider when selecting the right sinker Choosing the best fishing sinker is largely based on two factors. What environment are you fishing in? And what presentation (bait and rig) are you trying to present to the target fish? Let’s explore these two questions, then look at what the best sinker choice might be in some common situations and why this selection has been made. First, what environment are you fishing in: are you fishing on a boat or on land? How deep is it there? What does the structure (docks, weed, old tree stumps, sand bars, debris etc) look like where you are fishing? Is it rocky? Is it smooth? Is there grass or kelp that can hang you up? How fast is the water moving if it’s a river or in the ocean? Second, what presentation are you trying to show the target fish: where is the target fish typically found in the water column (surface, bottom, mid-water)? How do you rig up to catch that fish? Are you trying to tether your bait to a spot, or do you want it to drift? Do you want to sink all the way to the bottom, or do you want to stay suspended in the water column? By answering these questions, you’ll give yourself some big clues when it comes to selecting the best fishing weight for the sort of fishing you’re doing. It might be a tiny 1/16oz sinker for trout fishing off the dock, or a giant 10lb weight for deep drop fishing in hundreds of feet of ocean. Now you've seen the sort of criteria you should be using and the thought processes around the best fishing weight selection, let's break each area down into bite–size chunks with some real–world answers. How to choose the best fishing weight: selecting the best size of sinker But before we look at some different situations, let’s talk about how to choose the best size of fishing sinker to use. Beginner anglers tend to use more weight than they really need. Often, the reason behind this trend is that more weight tends to be easier to cast for someone starting out. One problem with using too much weight, is that it will go through the water column faster than what may be the optimal rate to attract and catch fish. If you're looking to target a species that's off the bottom, maybe you're lure fishing for trout or bass, you need to keep this in mind so your bait or lure is in the same zone as the fish. It’ll also crash into the water with more disturbance - an important consideration when freshwater fishing in a small pond or river, for example Even if the target fish is bottom oriented – like a catfish, flounder or ray – you can still go too heavy. Big sinkers dig into the bottom, causing poor bite indication and missed fish. Finding a balance between too heavy and too light is important and will come with a some experimentation and thought as to how your rig and sinker is performing. Too heavy of a weight might overload your rod to breaking point, or may be difficult to retrieve. Ideally, you’ll want to have different weights and sizes of the preferred style of weight so you can find that balance and adjust if you need to, as conditions change on the water. Ultimately, it’s down to your judgement to work out the best fishing weight to fit your needs on the day - it’ll soon be obvious that you’re fishing too heavy or light if you take into account the above guidance. A minor adjustment one way or the other – heavier or lighter; 1oz to 1.5oz, for example – is often all that’s needed. A good tip is to check out the weight rating on your favored rod or pole – it’s often printed on the rod near the handle end. Most will give you an idea in ounces or grams about what sort of sinker weight is going to work best and it’s important to not overload the rod. Likewise, choose too small a sinker and the rod won’t cast properly as the action is too stiff to compress under the smaller weight.

Often made from lead, a sinker is used to help the rig sink and provides a casting weight so you can propel the rig further. In addition, the sinker holds your rig in position in whatever environment you may be fishing, whether it’s on a calm lake or the open ocean, boat or shore. But use too small a lead and your rig will not reach where it's meant to on the cast, or it won't sink fast enough or hold bottom in current. Too big a sinker and you may break your rod or line, lose fish and miss bites. These are all factors that play into choosing the best fishing weight and we'll discuss each in detail. A sinker is usually made from moulded lead and has a small metal loop or swivel to thread the line through, or a hole through the centre for the same purpose. Sinkers can also be coated – for attractant or camouflage effects. Some can also be made from tungsten or steel but lead is by far the most common type of sinker material. Generally, sizes range from fractions of an ounce for light line fishing and small fish rigs, up to several pounds for dropping rigs in deep ocean. More usually, sinkers in the 0.5–8oz category cover most of what the average angler will use in fresh or saltwater.

But before we look at some different situations, let’s talk about how to choose the best size of fishing sinker to use. Beginner anglers tend to use more weight than they really need. Often, the reason behind this trend is that more weight tends to be easier to cast for someone starting out. One problem with using too much weight, is that it will go through the water column faster than what may be the optimal rate to attract and catch fish. If you're looking to target a species that's off the bottom, maybe you're lure fishing for trout or bass, you need to keep this in mind so your bait or lure is in the same zone as the fish. It’ll also crash into the water with more disturbance - an important consideration when freshwater fishing in a small pond or river, for example Even if the target fish is bottom oriented – like a catfish, flounder or ray – you can still go too heavy. Big sinkers dig into the bottom, causing poor bite indication and missed fish. Finding a balance between too heavy and too light is important and will come with a some experimentation and thought as to how your rig and sinker is performing. Too heavy of a weight might overload your rod to breaking point, or may be difficult to retrieve. Ideally, you’ll want to have different weights and sizes of the preferred style of weight so you can find that balance and adjust if you need to, as conditions change on the water. Ultimately, it’s down to your judgement to work out the best fishing weight to fit your needs on the day - it’ll soon be obvious that you’re fishing too heavy or light if you take into account the above guidance. A minor adjustment one way or the other – heavier or lighter; 1oz to 1.5oz, for example – is often all that’s needed. A good tip is to check out the weight rating on your favored rod or pole – it’s often printed on the rod near the handle end. Most will give you an idea in ounces or grams about what sort of sinker weight is going to work best and it’s important to not overload the rod. Likewise, choose too small a sinker and the rod won’t cast properly as the action is too stiff to compress under the smaller weight.

This type of sinker is used in a variety of rigs for a wide variety of fish species and it’s a great all-rounder. The sinker is either shaped like an egg or a bullet, with a hole through the centre of the long axis of the shape. They can be used pretty interchangeably, although the bullet-shaped one may offer a small advantage in terms of getting snagged in weeds, be it seaweed on the shore, or grass in a lake. One application is for light line surf fishing and it’s commonly used as part of a Carolina Rig set–up for use anywhere on any coastline to catch a variety of species from the shore. The “C-rig” is a common set–up with numerous other applications like largemouth bass fishing, trout fishing and catfish fishing too. It’s easy to set up and very effective, consisting of the sinker threaded onto the main line, a swivel and leader line with hook attached. A bead is threaded between the weight and the swivel to protect the knot. It's a great all–rounder. For light line surf fishing, for example, typically start with a 0.5oz / 14gr size and adjust up to 1.5oz / 43gr depending on the depth of water, current and tidal movement. A similar starting point weight-wise is recommended for most light-action combos, freshwater or salt. Obviously, a smaller sinker won't cast as far as a larger one, so keep this in mind. If you can't cast where you see fish feeding, you may need a bigger sinker. Egg sinkers can also come in much larger sizes and these are useful if you want a heavily-weighted rig that needs to hit the bottom in deep, calm water. Maybe you’re catfish fishing in a deep lake, dropping big baits for grouper in the ocean or weighting a big bobber – an egg-style sinker is useful in all these scenarios.

As you might have guessed, one of these sinkers is shaped like a pyramid. It has a metal loop to attach your line on what you would consider to be the flat bottom or underside of the pyramid. This kind of sinker is used in situations where you are trying to tether your presentation to a certain spot. Because of its shape, it excels in digging into a sandy or muddy bottom to hold your bait in situ, but it may get hung up too often if the bottom is rocky or snaggy. The sputnik is named after the Russian satellite of 1960’s Space Race fame because the lead is shaped like a torpedo sinker, but with distinct wire attachments. The first is a wire stem that protrudes from the top of the sinker, terminating in a small loop to attach your line. Then there are four wire “legs” sticking out and up from the bottom of the lead, like an old-fashioned satellite. The legs dig deep into sandy or muddy bottoms and hold fast, but the wires bend out under pressure from the angler retrieving or fish biting. If you need that extra degree of bottom stickiness – in large surf and heavy currents, for example – the sputnik is your first choice if the pyramid isn’t holding and going heavier isn’t an option. A common application for pyramid or sputnik sinkers is when targeting larger species from the beach when surf fishing or in fast-flowing rivers. Usually the bait involved will be a whole or chunked bait fish (mackerel, sardine, herring) or squid to attract a larger predator like a shark. There are a number of different ways to set up this kind of rig (a pulley rig or Carolina rig is most common) but, with all, the pyramid or sputnik shape helps hold that bait to a spot so the predator can find it. These are your best choice of sinkers for fishing in heavy current, surf or pier fishing.

A split shot fishing sinker is a small ball-shaped sinker with a slot in one side. You position your line in the slot and clamp the sinker onto the line by pinching the weight so it grips onto the line. Often, split shot weights are the smallest sinkers you can buy and they’re useful for when you don’t have to cast far or drop a bait in deep water, but still need some weight on the line, maybe to slowly sink a bait like a nightcrawler or a small grub. Originally, split shot weights were made from shotgun shot, with a slot simply cut in the larger sizes of shot to modify them for fishing purposes. But they’re specially manufactured now for fishing with the only disadvantage being the ease at which wildfowl will consume and become poisoned by lead shot, so dispose of your rigs and weights safely, or choose a non–toxic alternative. Split shot are also useful for weighting small bobbers and they often come in handy round dispensers containing a variety of small sizes. Just be careful not to damage the line when clamping them on – don’t squeeze them with pliers or your teeth! These are your best choice of fishing sinker for tackling a pond, lake or river for smaller species such as panfish, trout or perch. You can't cast a small splitshot very far but they are great for any situation where this doesn't matter. Overall, a wise option for anyone needing small sinkers for simple freshwater fishing.

Fishing industry：Taking, processing, and marketing of fish and other seafood from oceans, rivers, and lakes. Fishing is one of the primary forms of food production; it ranks with farming and probably predates it. The fishing industry employs more than 5 million people worldwide. The major countries engaged in marine fishing are Japan, China, the U.S., Chile, Peru, India, South Korea, Thailand, and the countries of northern Europe. The aquatic life harvested includes both marine and freshwater species of fish, shellfish, mammals, and seaweed. They are processed into food for human consumption, animal feeds, fertilizers, and ingredients for use in other commercial commodities.